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Carlos Buhler : ウィキペディア英語版
Carlos Buhler
Carlos Buhler (born October 17, 1954 in Harrison, New York) is one of America's leading high altitude mountaineers. Buhler's specialty is high-standard mountaineering characterized by small teams, no oxygen, minimal gear and equipment, and relatively low amounts of funding; yielding first ascents of difficult routes in challenging conditions, such as the Himalayan winter season.
Buhler is a graduate of The Putney School and is a 1978 graduate of the Huxley College of the Environment, Western Washington University. He is a recipient of the university's Distinguished Alumni Award, and currently resides in Canmore, Alberta, Canada. He has two children.
==Notable ascents==

* 1980 ''East Ridge'', Baruntse, Barun Valley, Himalaya, Nepal. New route and 2nd ascent with Lorenzo Ortas, Javier Escartin, and Jeronimo Lopez (all Spanish). April 27, 1980.
* 1983 ''Kangshung Face , Mount Everest, Himalaya, Nepal/Tibet. First ascent of face and route with Kim Momb and Louis Reichardt. October 8, 1983. George Lowe, Dan Reid and Jay Cassell reached summit next day.
* 1985 ''Northeast Face'', Ama Dablam, Himalaya, Nepal. First ascent of face and route with Michael Kennedy, Dec 1-7, 1985.
* 1988 ''Northwest Face/North Ridge'', Kangchenjunga, Himalaya, Nepal. First American ascent with Peter Habeler (Austria) and Martin Zabaleta (Spain/Basque). May 3, 1988.
* 1989 ''West (Polish) Ridge'', Cho Oyu, Himalaya, Tibet/Nepal. First alpine style ascent with Martin Zabaleta (Spain/Basque). April 8, 1989.
* 1990 ''Northeast Ridge'', Dhaulagiri, Himalaya, Nepal. Summit reached with Nuru Sherpa (Nepal) and Dainius Makauskas (Lithuania), October 31, 1990. Makauskas disappeared on the descent. Buhler and Nuru Sherpa suffered severe frostbite.
* 1992 ''West Ridge'', Dorje Lhakpa or Dorje Lakpa, Jugal Himal, Himalaya, Nepal. First solo ascent. April 12–13, 1992.
* 1996 ''West Ridge'', Mount Miller, Saint Elias Mountains, Alaska USA. First ascent with Charles Sassara, Paul Claus, Ruedi Homberger (Swiss), Reto Ruesh (Swiss), April 12, 1996.
* 1996 ''North Ridge'', K2, Karakoram, China/Pakistan. Russian American ascent. Summit reached with Sergei Penzov and Igor Benkin (both Russian), August 14, 1996. Benkin died on the descent.
* 1997 ''East Buttress'', University Peak, Wrangell Mountains, Alaska USA. New route with Charles Sassara, April 29-May 5, 1997.
* 1997 ''Diamir Face'', Nanga Parbat, Himalaya, Pakistan. First Russian and Second American Ascent. Summit reached with Ivan Dusharin (Russian), July 14, 1997. Viktor Kolishnichenko and Andrei Volkov (both Russian) reached the summit on July 18, 1997.〔("Nanga Parbat summiters" ) , ''8000ers.com'' July 13, 2010. retrieved on March 17, 2014.〕
*1998 ''The Lightening Route'' (VII 5.9 A4 WI4, 1580m), North Face of Changabang, Garhwal Himalaya, India. New route with Andrei Volkov, Andrei Mariev, Ivan Dusharin and Pavel Chabaline (all Russian). April 16 - June 6, 1998.
* 2002 ''West Thong Wok Glacier'', Sepu Kangri, Nyanchen Tangla Range, Eastern Tibet, First ascent with Mark Newcomb. October 2, 2002.
* 2003 ''West Face'', Pukahirka North I, Cordillera Blanca, Andes, Peru, New route with Thaddeus Josephson. July 21–28, 2003.
* 2008 ''East Face'', Cerro Castillo, Aisen Region Andes, Chilean Patagonia. New route with Joan Sole Rovirosa. October 6–9, 2008.

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